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髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo

髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo

髦民沖繩遊記 #03
如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂

之前介紹完本部港的燈塔瀬底大橋,接著打算介紹一間食堂給大家休息下。畢竟去旅行其中最重要的一環就是尋找美食,尤其我們是踩單車呢~本部町其實是一個寧靜樸素同時帶點舊舊的歷史痕跡的小鎮。畢竟從前曾經是沖繩西北這一帶最繁榮的港口。而來到這裡,大家都會發現這裡沒有什麼大的連鎖餐廳,甚至一間豪華一點的也不會看見,但就充滿一間間令人想衝進去的舊食堂,其中就包括我們今次拜訪的岸本食堂 きしもと食堂

岸本食堂在本部町甚至整個沖繩都是非常有名和有地位的,不管外地遊客或本地人都會慕名前來,我們去的當天的客人就有喜愛攝影的年輕女生,有拍拖的情侶,有剛剛下班午餐的大叔,也有一家大細的開車來的當地人。這亦是其中一個我們覺得非常值得介紹給大家的原因:這裡其實一點都不遊客(去旅行其實很不想被人用遊客的目光對待)。這裡有兩款傳統的沖繩美食(稍後為大家介紹),而食堂的本店就有百年歷史,從1905年經營到現在。

Okinawa Travelogue #3
Kishimoto Shokudo under Mount Yae: How did this cafeteria survive 100 years, with only two dishes on their menu?

After showing you Motobu’s lighthouse and Sesoko Bridge, we want to introduce you somewhere to eat and rest. Eating is one of the basic elements on a trip, especially when this is a cycling trip. Food is fuel. Motobu is a quiet and down-to-earth town with history. It was once the most prospective port in northwest Okinawa. Yet you won’t be able to find any chain restaurants here, not to mention any luxurious ones. In fact, there are many old-fashioned cafeterias, including Kishimoto Shokudo(岸本食堂 きしもと食堂) which we will be introducing.

Kishimoto Shokudo is very famous and prestigious in Okinawa among both locals and tourists. Customers we met on the day we visited included young lady who loves photography, couples, workers and families. This is why we think it is worth a visit: it’s not touristy at all (we enjoy travelling like locals). Opened since 1905, this cafeteria serves two traditional Okinawa dishes (we’ll introduce later on).

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 091211首先我們穿過本部町的中心來到 県道84号線 踩大約10﹣15分鐘。這裡途中都是一些民居。行人路比較窄,所以我們都直接踩馬路。
First we passed by the centre of Motobu and reached prefectural road route 84 (県道84号線), which took us about 10-15 minutes. On the way, you will pass by some residential areas. The pedestrian pavement was quite narrow so we just rode on the road.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100305踩了一會就見到我們的目的地,就在公路旁的左手邊。我們其實是最早來到的三位(營業時間11am 開始),之後慢慢陸續有其他客人聚集等開門,而這裡的位置是這麼偏僻,這就反映出他們有多受客人歡迎(相中全部都是當地人)。
After a while, we reached our destination that’s on the left side of the road. Indeed we were the first three customers in the queue (restaurant opens at 11am). Gradually more and more customers came to wait for the cafeteria to open. Despite the remote geographical location, there were quite a number of customers and this somehow reflects the popularity of the cafeteria (the people in the photograph were all locals).

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the momentAL CAMERA 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100312整個都是木的建築非常搶眼易見。而我們最喜歡的是店鋪前的那棵樹,樹葉伸出來剛好形成了一個天然的樹蔭為大家遮陰,感覺和食堂本身木的元素完全融入在一起,這完全是我們的夢想中的店鋪的樣子 🙂
The wooden architecture was very eye-catching. The tree in front of the shop was our favorite, because its branches were just right to create a natural shade, and it integrated well with the ‘wood’ element of the cafeteria. This is totally our kind of dream store.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 095212如果口渴旁邊有飲料機可以幫大家補充一些水分,路程不算辛苦,不過夏天水分真的消耗的很快~
岸本食堂有兩間店,除了我們這家另一家就是在市中心。因為我們踩單車,所以就算這家偏遠點也不是問題,但這家就環境寬敞又舒服,最重要是可以泊單車 🙂
If you are thirsty, you can buy drinks from the machine next to the cafeteria. The ride to the cafeteria wasn’t that exhausting, but it’s easy to get dehydrated during hot summer.
Kishimoto Shokudo has two locations; there is one at the town center other than this shop we went to. We chose to lunch here because we thought distance wasn’t a problem for us bike riders. This cafeteria is also more spacious and comfy, and most importantly, we could easily park our bikes here.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100502一進去首先就是購票,幸好這兩位日本女生會英文,幫我們做了簡單的翻譯:)
Once you enter the cafeteria, you need to buy food tickets at the machine. Luckily we met two Japanese girls who knew English and could translate for us : )

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100613
Since it’s still early when we arrived, we got to choose our favorite tables: Tatami at the corner embraced by warm sunlight.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100755因為我們是最早來到的一群,這是最少客人的時候,我們就順利的找了角落的榻榻米,喜歡被陽光包圍的感覺。

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100808食堂內基本上都是用木作為主要建造材料,充滿古舊的裝潢,令人心情很快的平靜下來。
The cafeteria is basically built with woods and antique decoration. It calms you down as soon as you get in.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the momentAL CAMERA 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100718相比起本店,這裡的室內充滿空間感,而且我們超喜歡陽光能夠充分的溢進來。
Compared to the cafeteria at town center, this shop is more spacious and we really love how the sunlight filled up the room through the big windows.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100547一家大細開車前來,爸爸一坐下來就打開報紙看。
A family drove here to eat: the father read newspaper while waiting for food.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 101241好,講了這麼久終於要介紹我們今天的主角之一:沖繩手打そば (音:Soba)。大家之所以如此喜愛這個麺,大概就是因為原來它依然是保留著一百年前的製作方法。據店鋪的介紹,當時因為缺乏製麺的重要材料之一 ﹣鹼水,因此人們便將榕樹燒成灰,然後將木灰加進水裡沉澱兩天來取得鹼水製作麵條。據說混入了木灰的麵條還含有礦物的質豐富,非常健康呢~ 結果岸本食堂就是一直堅持這個製作方法而成為大家喜愛的原因。
Here comes the main theme of the article: FOOD

Handmade Okinawa Soba (沖繩手打そば)
What makes the buckwheat noodle so popular is probably the recipe that has been used for hundred years. According to the shop, due to the lack of ingredients in the ancient times, people burnt banyan trees into ashes and soak the wood ashes for two days to leach lye for making wheat noodles. I heard that noodles made out of wood ashes contain a variety of minerals, so it’s very good for health. And Kishimoto Shokudo is renowned for keeping this traditional method in making Soba.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 101825另一必定要試(其實根本無得選擇 xp)的,就是這個每日限量的「沖繩炊飯ジューシー」,同樣是沖繩地道食品之一。用滷肉汁炮製,配以香菇片、蔥花、炊飯、豚肉粒,味道是甜甜的非常開胃。加上飯的口感是綿綿的非常 juicy。唯獨是分量少了一點,不過只是250Yen,所以肚餓的可以點兩碗也完全不過分~ 個人來講喜歡這個比沖繩面多一些 xp 記得是每日限量,賣完就無啦~
Another must-try (there’s actually no 3rd choice lol) is the Okinawan style seasoned rice “Jushi” (沖繩炊飯ジューシー). Cooked in pork broth and lard, the rice is mixed with mushroom, chopped green onion and pork. Its sweet taste makes it very appetizing. The mushy texture of the rice makes it very “juicy”. The portion was a bit small but it only cost 250 yen, so you might want to order two bowls of “Jushi” if you are hungry. Personally I think that the portion of Jushi is bigger than that of Soba. However, please be reminded that the Jushi rice has a limited supply every day.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 101355上菜前大家都在聊天,一上菜就粒聲都無,都吃得津津有味~~
We kept chatting before the food was ready, but once the dishes arrived we were so concentrated in eating the tasty meal that we all became silent…

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 102750岸本食堂在市中心的本店已有超過百年曆史,現在的經營者已經是第三代。八重岳店則是它的唯一分店。這麼多年客人數量依然不減。而食物的款式依然維持著只有兩款~
The main branch of Kishimoto Shokudo located in town centre has over a hundred years of history and is run by the 3rd generation descendants. The cafeteria at Mount Yae is the only branch of Kishimoto Shokudo. The number of customers never decreased over the years while the food choices on menu remained unchanged. They only have two dishes!

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 100748廚房的上方有這麼多年來大家的留言和簽名
Autographs and comments collected all these years were posted on the wall above the kitchen.

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 104619

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 101259吃完再坐一會我們準備下個目的地就繼續出發了!
We rested a bit after eating until we were ready for the next destination!

 

本部町 沖繩 岸本食堂 okinawa motobu Kishimoto bike the moment 岸本食堂 髦民沖繩遊記#03。如何100年來只做兩款菜式?八重岳下的岸本食堂 Kishimoto Shokudo 160712 110439然後我們就沿著原來踩會市中心,之後一定要給大家看看這個,就是岸本食堂於本部町市內的本店。據說基本上每天都有這麼多人排隊,就算烈日當空大家依然排得興高采烈。不知道如果下雨的話畫面是否一樣門庭若市。
不過其實兩家都是一樣的,但八重岳那間就勝在有足夠位置任你泊單車,所以會踩單車的朋友我們都建議可以去八重岳那家,中途還可以看多一點景色 🙂
After that we backtrack to the town centre. Here we can show you the main branch of Kishimoto Shokudo within Motobu town. We heard that the queue is basically this long every single day. People are still happy to stand in such a hot sunny day, but I am not sure for the rainy days.
Actually, the two branches are the same, but branch at Mount Yae is better for riders because there are more parking spaces for bicycles (and you can enjoy more sceneries on the way to the cafeteria).

Remarks:
﹣地址:沖繩縣國頭郡本部町字伊野波350-1
﹣營業時間:11:00~19:00,無公休
﹣Map Code:206 859 346
﹣11﹣12時分來應該不錯,算是早場,不用怕沒有位置
﹣踩單車的話從市中心踩5﹣10分鐘就到,道路平坦,不辛苦

﹣Address: 350-1 Inoha, Motobu-chō, Kunigami District, Okinawa
﹣Opening hours: 11:00-19:00, Everyday
﹣Map Code:206 859 346
﹣Better to come around 11am-12noon to avoid crowd
﹣The easy bike ride takes about 5-10 mins from town centre

story & photos by Hughes
translated by Janice Lee

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